West Union Wreckage Rules
ANY YEAR PROSTOCK BIG CARS (ALTERED) FALL SHOW ONLY 2023
ANY YEAR PROSTOCK BIG CARS (ALTERED) FALL SHOW ONLY 2023
NO IMPERIALS OF ANY YEAR ALLOWED
- full cradles allowed/ no kickers
- Extra plates call first
- Read all rules carefully and follow them! Any questions call Mark Mccord at 937 213-0595 There will be no stretching or bending of any rules or you will go home!
- You must pass inspection within 3 times through or you will not be permitted to run and will lose your entry fee.
- A 12“ x 12“ roof sign is recommended. It cannot strengthen the car in anyway.
- Cars must be stock unless modifications are stated in the rules. Cars must have functioning brakes at all times on at least one axle. No painting of the frames, inside of body of the car, or underneath of the car and inside of the trunk.
- A helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times on the track.
- If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it.
- Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting. We have the right to reinspect, cut, or drill any car at any time. If you are caught breaking the rules you will forfeit all winnings and/or prizes you are due. If you stretch a rule, you will lose that rule.
- All airbags, glass, plastic, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.
- No painting of the frames, inside of the body of the car, or underneath of the car and inside of the trunk. This includes overspray. If found with paint within those areas, the car will not even be inspected.
- All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
- Batteries must be moved to the passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
- Patching and rust repair will be permitted only if cleared by an official.
- Officials’ decisions are final! All cars are subjected to re-inspection at any time.
- If the car is found to have plate on the frame or body that the rules do not allow the car will not be permitted to run. There will be no option to fix this problem.
- If you hammer/shape/weld on the frame in any manner not covered in the rules you will not be able to run. There is no fixing this.
- You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1-minute total. An aggressive hit is solely at the discretion of the officials
- You are not permitted to hit anyone in the driver’s door. If you do, you are disqualified. If you use your driver’s door to take advantage of this rule, the car that hit you is not disqualified.
- You may not get out of your car for any reason during the heat until you are out.
- You are only permitted to have 1 fire in your car. This will result in a disqualification.
- No sandbagging, teaming, or holding. Any of these will result in a disqualification. You can not pin to win.
FRAME & BUMPERS (NO RUST REPAIR)
- Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
- No frame welding other than what is stated in the rules.
- You may cut the flaps and tilt the frame in 1 place and in 1 direction. No seam welding on the frames permitted.
- No shaping or hammering of the frame. You may crease, notch, or dimple the rear 12” of the frame to help the car roll.
- Homemade front bumpers are permitted. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper, it must conform to the following size limits: It can be no larger than 8” x 8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” wide and can not exceed 12” wide (front to back). The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. If using a factory bumper, it may be loaded or stuffed full.
- You may mount the front or rear bumper in 1 of 2 ways:
a. The bumper may be welded to the factory shock in the factory location. If using a factory bumper shock, it must be bolted in the factory location and must have a 1½” inch gap from the frame to the shock plate.
b. The front frame may be shortened to the front edge of the factory core support mounting bracket and the bumper may be welded directly to the frame.
You are not permitted to do this for any Cadillac or Imperial. The bumper shock must be removed from the inside of the frame, and you are permitted a 4” x 12” x 1/4” plate on the side of the frame for a bumper bracket that must be attached to the bumper and it must be welded on the outside of the frame towards the tires. Do not alter the factory mount. On the back side of the bumper where it meets the frame you may use a 1/4” x 6” x 6” plate to create a flat mounting surface that must be between the frame and bumper. Rear bumpers may be seam welded and loaded. No Chrysler pointy bumpers are permitted for rear bumpers. You may have a 4” x 12” x 1/4” plate on the side of the frame for a rear bumper bracket and it must be attached to the rear bumper. It must be welded on the outside of the frame towards the tires. No exceptions!
- The car must set level. The bumpers can not be higher than 22” to the bottom of the bumper or lower than 14” to the bottom part of the frame.
- You may have a 6” x 22” x 1/4” hump plate on coil spring cars and may be straight across or contoured to the frame and must be centered in the hump. On leaf sprung cars, you may have a 6” x 11” x 1/4" hump plate straight across or contoured and it must be welded on the outside of the frame towards the tires.
- Shortening of the rear frame, body, and unibody is not permitted in any way.
BODY & CAGE
- Doors may be welded 5” on 5” off with no thicker than 1/4” x 3” x 5” material or can be fastened shut with #9 wire or banding. The driver’s door may have a door skin no thicker than 1/8” and may be welded all the way around.
- The trunk lid must be from the same make and model of the car and must be a trunk lid (no hoods). You can fold the trunk lid over or push it down. You may cut the speaker deck out or leave it in. If you choose to cut the speaker deck out, you can not weld the deck lid to the package tray. The deck lid is being measured 12” from the top of the rear quarter panels in the center of the deck lid in 3 spots starting from the back of the deck lid up. Two (2) 8” x 8” inspection holes must be put in all deck lids within 2” of the trunk strapping and in the center of the side quarter panel strapping. This is mandatory. No welding the deck lid to the trunk floor. Body creasing is okay. Deck lids may be welded with 3” x 5” x 1⁄4” plate 5” on 5” off.
- The hood can be bolted down in 6 places. 4 spots from sheet metal to sheet metal and 2 front body mounts that may extend through the hood. If using wire, you may use 8 double strands of #9 wire. Two may go around the bumper and/or the frame. Hoods must be open for inspection (12" x 12" hole over the carburetor).
- Factory body mount bolts may be changed to 5/8” bolts. There must be a 1” gap between the body and the frame. You can use steel spacers, hockey pucks, or a stack of washers but nothing used may be bigger than 3” in diameter. Body washers inside of the car can be no bigger than 3” in diameter. The front 2 body mounts may be 1” and extend up through the hood. You may weld a 3” washer to the top side of the frame but only centered over the body hole (1/4” thick).
- No seam welding will be permitted on the body. Repairing sheet metal is limited to where the battery box and gas tank are and the driver’s area of the floorboards of the car.
- Front body spacers may be 10” tall and welded to the core support frame mount and must remain below the core support and not welded to the core support whatsoever.
- You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat. You can have one bar per side connecting the dash bar and the rear bar. Side bars may be inside of the car or inside of the doors. A roll over bar is permitted. No down legs or kickers are permitted. Gussets are permitted in the corners of the cage but must be done at the corners only. The bars must be no bigger than 4” in diameter and no longer than 60”. You can use a 1⁄4” x 10” x 10” plate to attach the bars to the center of the door post sheet metal. No exceptions! No kickers or down legs are permitted. You may have a gas tank protector no wider than 32”. It may touch the package tray sheet metal and it can be welded to sheet metal only with 2 welds or 2 1/2” bolts. The 2 1/2” bolts can go all the way through the package tray. On a non-package tray car, the gas tank protector can not touch the rear end in any way. The gas tank protector must stay inside of the car body.
- The dash bar must be 5” from the firewall and the rear bar can be no farther back than where the kick panel meets the seat. All bars must be 5” off the transmission tunnel.
- The original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat style tank or fuel cell. If it is a plastic fuel cell it must be in a steel structure. It must be moved inside of the car behind the driver's seat but no further back than the rear axle. Batteries must be moved to the passenger side floorboard and securely fastened. These must be covered with a rubber or nonflammable material.
- You may use expanded metal no thicker than 1/8” or a factory air condenser on the core support in front of the radiator. This may be attached with four 3/8” bolts or four 1” welds.
- You may have 2 front window bars no bigger than 3” x 1/4” strapping. They can’t be welded more than 6” on the roof and fire wall. You are permitted 1 rear window bar that can not be any bigger than 2” x 2” x 1/4”. It can not be welded more than 6” on the roof and 6” from the top seam of the deck lid. These may attach to the sheet metal no more than 6” on the roof and deck lid. On a wagon, you may have one rear window bar and it must be in the center of the tailgate no more than 6” and can not be attached to the rear bumper.
- You may have four ½” bolts per wheel well.
- You are permitted 1” all thread for front shocks but only one per side with a 3” x 3” washer on top of the cone and a 3” x 3” washer on the bottom side of the lower control arm. The washers can not be welded. All nuts must be standard.
- Any tie rods may be used. On an ‘03 and newer, you must use the factory rack and pinion. Any rear end is permitted. If you run a rear end brace, it can not reinforce the frame or be any wider than 10”.
SPINDLES CAN BE CHANGED OUT TO FACTORY 80S SPINDLES. NO AFTERMARKET SPINDLES PERMITTED
- Watts link conversions on ‘98 and newer cars are permitted. You must use 1⁄4” x 2” x 2” square tubing or 2” round pipe for the rear trailing arms. For the upper and lower mounting brackets, the uppers must be mounted to the package tray and the lowers must be mounted on the side of the frame. It can not be mounted inside, on top of , or on the bottom of the frame and can be no larger than 7” x 7”.
- You can weld the front upper A-arms down using a 1⁄4” x 2” x 4” piece of steel on the front and back side of the upper A-arm. No other welding is permitted on the upper Aarm. No welding on the lower A-arms is permitted.
- No spacers or other metal permitted in, on top of, or around the coil springs or inside of the frame on the coil springs. No aftermarket coil springs are permitted.
- Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. Solid suspensions are okay. All suspension components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars do not have to bounce. You can change out the factory rear shocks for 1” all thread with a standard nut. No exceptions!
- Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. You can not change coil spring to leaf spring set ups. Leaf spring cars can change leaf springs with no more than 7 springs 5/16” thick springs. No exceptions! The main spring must be on top. Springs must be stair stepped 1”. No exceptions! No more than 4 clamps per leaf pack. The rear end must sit on top of the springs. No exceptions! You can change out the factory rear shocks for 1” all thread with a standard nut. No exceptions! No more than 2 aftermarket shocks on the rear end.
- Any tires are permitted.
- On ‘03 and newer Fords, you must use the factory aluminum cradle and suspension components or you may use a Smash It approved bolt in cradle but must have a 1/2” gap from the cradle to the inside frame rail. No exceptions! You may use 80’s style spindles and only 80’s style spindles. You can not tilt an ‘03 and newer Ford. All suspension and steering components must be stock except tie rods.
- No aftermarket spindles are permitted. If you use aftermarket ball joints the collar you weld in or bolt in can only be ½” bigger than the ball joint. You may have a 2” x 2” x 1/4" ball joint protector.
- If you run a sway bar it must be mounted in the factory position. The ends can be heated and bolted to the lower A-arm with no bigger than a ½” bolt. It must have a 1” gap from the pulley protector. No welding of the sway bar is permitted.
- Any rear end is permitted with a rear end brace. Bracing can not strengthen the car in any way.
ENGINE, TRANSMISSON, & DRIVETRAIN
- Any car motor of choice is permitted. You may use the frame mounts that have a rubber style bushing like a factory style mount. ZTR or equivalent mounts are permitted. Approved solid motor mounts are permitted no longer than 7” long and must be welded to the frame cradle only. No exceptions! No chains on the engine are permitted.
- The transmission cross member can be a factory one or 2” x 2” square tubing only. It must be straight.
- The angles for the cross member can't be longer than 7" x 2” x 2” and must be within 12" from the factory location.
- Lower Engine cradles, a front plate, and pulley protectors are permitted.
- Transmission braces, aftermarket bell housings, aftermarket tail shafts, midplates and slider driveshafts are permitted. Midplates can not strengthen the car in any way and can only be 1” past the engine block. Distributor protectors, fan guards, and halo bars are not permitted.
- Aftermarket gas pedal, brake pedal, steering column, and transmission cooler are permitted. These must not be mounted in a way to strengthen car.
- No skid plates are permitted.
STREET STOCK BIG CARS /YOUTH BIG CAR
STREET STOCK BIG CARS /YOUTH BIG CAR
- Any gear is permitted. You must run the stock housing and axles for the make and model of the car. Rear end bracing is not permitted.
- Cars must be 100% stock! No cross breeding the entire drive line. It must be the same make as the car (Chevy to Chevy, Ford to Ford, etc). It must have the factory engine of the make and model of the car with the stock exhaust or headers. The exhaust may be cut off.
- The engine must be mounted with the stock mounts in the stock position. No welding of mounts. They must be bolted in. No homemade cross members. The cross member must be stock and bolted in, not welded. You are permitted an aftermarket aluminum radiator, but it must be bolted in like factory or held in with rachet straps or #9 wire. No radiator protectors or holders are permitted.
- You may leave the stock gas tank in the stock location, or you may relocate the fuel tank to the rear floor of the car. If this is done, you must use a fuel cell or boat tank. If it is a plastic fuel tank it must be bolted or welded to sheet metal in a steel structure. No stock fuel tanks are permitted inside of the car. If you move the fuel cell to the inside of the car it must be securely fastened to the floor with bolts and/or #9 wire and you must remove the stock tank from under the car. Ratchet straps are not approved to mount the fuel cell.
- The windshield may be left in the car, but it is recommended that you remove it. The following must be removed prior to entering the fairgrounds: the windows, headlights, taillights, all the chrome, and the mirrors. The interior must be swept clean of debris and glass. You must remove all glass, plastic, and fiberglass on the outside of the car including the plastic bumper covers. ALL AIRBAGS AND PUCKS MUST BE COMPLETELY REMOVED
- Under the hood you may take the plastic fender wells out. The battery may be left in the stock location. You may put a rubber mat over it or spray it with foam around it but not excessively. You may move the battery to the floor of the car. You may lengthen the cables to reach the battery on the floor but not the wiring harness. This will be strictly enforced.
- A simplified wiring harness is permitted. If the car has a wiring harness in front of the core support you may move it behind the core support. You cannot remove body mount bolt to do this.
- All body mount bolts must be factory stock. No altering is permitted.
- The doors must be chained or wired in no more than 8 places per door and no more than 2 double stains of wire per spot. The wire for the bottom of the doors may go around frame. You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands of #9 wire per spot. You can weld the driver’s front door only for safety using 3” x 3” x 1/4” strapping and you can have a door skin no thicker than 1/8” or similar material. No other doors may be welded or have washers or angle iron welded to them.
- Trunks must be chained or wired in no more than 8 places and no more than 2 double stains of wire per spot. Two of these may go around the bumper and/or the frame. The deck lid and tailgate must be in the factory position on the car or it must be completely removed from the car. If you removed the deck lid you are not permitted any wire for your trunk. Two (2) 8” x 8” inspection holes must be put in all deck lids within 2” of the center of the quarter panel rain channel. You cannot remove the speaker deck from the car. No welding or adding metal is permitted. If the deck lid is welded you will not run or you will cut the deck lid completely off with no exceptions. The deck lid is being measured 12” from the top of the rear quarter panels in the center of the deck lid in 3 spots starting from the back of the deck lid up. If you don’t have a deck lid, you are not permitted any wire for your trunk.
- Hoods may be wired or chained in 8 spots and no more than 2 double stains of wire per spot. No exceptions! You may use 5/16” chain or 2 strands of #9 wire per spot. It must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No welding washers for holes. There must be a 12" hole in the hood in case of a fire. You must remove the hood latch. Hoods must be open for inspection. A double strain of #9 wire in the center of the front windshield is mandatory.
- Creasing of the body is permitted but it must be behind the back door on the quarter panels only. The quarter panels must stay the stock height of the car.
- Any tire and rim combos are permitted. Doubled tires are permitted. No foam filled tires or bead locks.
- You can have a 4 point floating cage with gussets no further than 6’’ out of each corner and the cage material no bigger than 4x4x1/4” if you choose. You may have a rollover bar but it must run straight across and can only be welded to the top side of the rear seat bar. You are permitted a gas tank holder off the back bar that can be no wider than 24” and must be 6” away from all sheet metal. No exceptions or you are not permitted to run! These may be no bigger than 2” x 2” and the mounting plate can be no bigger than 6” x 6” and must be mounted no farther than 6” behind the driver’s seat. You may also reinforce the driver’s door as you see fit for driver safety. This may be done from door seam to door seam only.
- The car’s factory springs and shocks are what can be used. No solid suspension. Screw in spring risers are permitted. No wire, chains, or any weld on the rear ends or the rear spring pockets. The car must bounce. The front bumper can not be any higher than 21” from the bottom of the bumper. The back bumper can not be any higher than 14” from the bottom of the bumper.
- Any car bumper is permitted except for Chrysler pointy bumpers. They must be bolted and welded on in the factory location. You may collapse the shocks and weld all the way around the shock and to the mounting plate to the bumper and there must be a 1½” gap between the frame and the factory bumper shock plate. The shock must be bolted in the factory location. If the car did not come with bumper shocks, you cannot add them. You can use up to 6” x 6” box tubing that is 1/4” thick as a bumper that is no more than 5 feet long with no point. The ends of the bumper must remain open. No metal added to the bumper is permitted. If the car has no shocks, the bumper may be welded directly to the frame with no metal added. On the back side of the bumper where the shock mounts you may use a 1/4” x 6”x 6” piece of flat metal to create a flat mounting surface. DEC bumpers and Adept Products bumpers are permitted. Homemade bumpers must be bolted together, not seam welded. Hard nosing is permitted but there must be a 1” gap between the front of the core support mounting bracket and the bumper plate. This will be measured from the front of the core support mounting bracket to the bumper plate.
- You may weld the spider gears in the rear end to make it posi. You must use factory rear end housing for the car you are running.
- No wire or straps can be attach from the roof to the floor in rear seat area
- You may have 2 4x4x1/4’’ fix it plates on the front frame. NO MORE THAN 2!!! This rule applies for fresh and prerun cars.